Planning a northbound John Muir Trail hike from Whitney Portal? This comprehensive guide covers everything you need for a successful NOBO JMT thru-hike, including detailed transportation logistics, resupply strategies, and insider tips from a 2025 northbound hike.
Table of Contents
- Getting to Whitney Portal from Yosemite
- Acclimation Strategy at Whitney Portal
- Resupply Points and Mileage
- Budget-Friendly Resupply Options
- Transportation Links and Contacts
- Frequently Asked Questions
Getting to Whitney Portal: The Reverse Shuttle Strategy
One of the biggest challenges for northbound JMT hikers is getting from Yosemite (where most people park) to Whitney Portal (where you start). Here’s the best transportation strategy based on real 2025 experience.
Step 1: Park at Yosemite Backpackers Lot
Park your car at the Wilderness Permit Holders Parking Lot in Yosemite Valley, located near the North Pines or Upper Pines Campground. This is where you’ll finish your hike, so your car will be waiting for you.
Step 2: Yosemite to Mammoth via YARTS
Take the Yosemite purple shuttle from your parking area to the Wilderness Center. From there, board the YARTS (Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System) bus to Mammoth Lakes.
YARTS Details:
- Season: July 1 – September 30 (dates vary by year)
- Booking: Reserve in advance at yarts.com
- Phone: 1-877-989-2787 (book at least 12 hours in advance)
- Route: Highway 395/120E – Mammoth Lakes route
- First departure: Approximately 9:00 AM from Yosemite
- Cost: $30-60 round trip (reduced rates for seniors, veterans, children)
Step 3: Mammoth to Lone Pine via Eastern Sierra Transit
In Mammoth, transfer to the Eastern Sierra Transit Authority (ESTA) bus heading south to Lone Pine.
ESTA Details:
- Route: Lone Pine Express or 395 South route
- Booking: estransit.com/buy-my-pass
- Phone: (760) 872-1901 ext. 2 for same-day arrangements
- Cost: Approximately $23-25 from Mammoth to Lone Pine
- Note: One ticket covers any bus changes needed
Total Travel Time: Expect a full day of travel. Leaving Yosemite at 9:00 AM, you’ll typically arrive in Lone Pine around 7:00 PM.
Step 4: Lone Pine to Whitney Portal
From Lone Pine, you have two options:
Option A: Private Shuttle (Recommended)
Book with one of these reliable local shuttles:
Lone Pine Kurt (Kurt Power)
- Email: lonepinekurt@aol.com
- Phone: 661-972-9476
- Notes: Highly recommended trail angel, very reliable, available any time with advance booking
Lone Pine Chuck (Chuck Tello)
- Email: LonePineChuck@gmail.com
- Phone/Text: 805-657-0021
- Notes: Can do long-distance rides, reliable local shuttle service
Other Options:
- Bob Ennis: (760) 876-1915, rwennis@outlook.com
- SherpaMax: (805) 341-6360, sherpamax@aol.com
Both Kurt and Chuck are familiar with hikers’ needs and can pick you up from anywhere in Lone Pine at any time. When booking, give them your expected arrival time and phone number (if you have satellite communication).
Option B: Hitchhiking
The Eastern Sierra has a strong hiking culture, and locals are very friendly to hikers. Hitchhiking is surprisingly common and safe in this area. Stand on the road heading to Whitney Portal from Lone Pine, and you can typically get a ride. In our experience throughout the trail, rides came quickly at all the trailhead locations we needed them.
Optional: Stay in Lone Pine
If you arrive late (around 7:00 PM), consider spending the night in Lone Pine at a hotel. This allows you to:
- Get a good night’s sleep before starting
- Grab any last-minute supplies
- Hitchhike up to Whitney Portal fresh in the morning
Whitney Portal: Your Starting Point
Backpackers Campground
When you arrive at Whitney Portal, you’ll camp at the Backpackers Campground, a first-come, first-served camping area.
Details:
- Cost: $10 per night
- Facilities: Pit toilets, water available, NO power for charging devices
- Amenities Nearby: Small store and diner (closed by evening if you arrive late)
- Elevation: 8,000 feet
Important: Have all your gear ready before arrival. If you arrive at night, the store and diner will be closed. Your shuttle driver will show you exactly where the backpackers camp is located.
Acclimation Strategy
Day 1: Arrive and camp at Whitney Portal (8,000 feet)
Day 2: Hike to Trail Camp (12,000 feet)
- Distance: Approximately 6 miles
- Elevation gain: 4,000 feet
- Why: This is a steep climb but gets you positioned for an early Whitney summit
- Timing: Aim to arrive by 1:00 PM to give yourself all afternoon to acclimate
Day 3: Summit Whitney, then descend to Guitar Lake or Crabtree Meadows
This gives you two nights of acclimation (one at 8,000 ft, one at 12,000 ft) before summiting. You’ll be well-positioned for the rest of the high-elevation JMT. This two-night acclimation strategy made a huge difference for us. Training for high-altitude hiking helps, but acclimation is still critical.
Resupply Strategy and Mileage
Overview Table
| Resupply Point | Miles from Whitney Portal | Days from Last Stop | Method | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Whitney Portal | 0 | Start | – | – |
| Independence (via Kearsarge Pass) | ~59 miles from start | 5-7 days | Post Office (General Delivery) | FREE |
| Muir Trail Ranch (MTR) | ~133 miles | 5-7 days | Bucket resupply | $95 + shipping |
| Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR) | ~156 miles | 3-4 days | Bucket resupply or store | $30 + ferry |
| Reds Meadow/Mammoth | ~179 miles | 2-4 days | Post Office or store | FREE (Post Office) |
| Tuolumne Meadows | ~208 miles | 2-3 days | Post Office or store | Optional |
| Yosemite Valley | ~221 miles | 2 days | END | – |
Resupply Point #1: Independence (via Kearsarge Pass)
JMT Mile: ~59 (plus 7.4 miles each way to trailhead = 14.8 miles round trip)
After 5-7 days on the trail, exit over Kearsarge Pass to resupply in Independence.
The Route:
- Leave the JMT at the Kearsarge Pass junction
- Hike 7.4 miles over Kearsarge Pass to Onion Valley Campground
- Hitchhike 13 miles down to Independence
- Pick up resupply at Independence Post Office
- Hitchhike back up to Onion Valley
- Hike 7.4 miles back to the JMT
Independence Post Office (RECOMMENDED – FREE)
Address for General Delivery:
Your Name
c/o General Delivery
Independence, CA 93526What to Do in Independence:
- Pick up your bucket at the Post Office (right at the corner where you’ll be dropped off)
- Cross the street to the Valero Gas Station
- Has an excellent sandwich shop
- Sells trail essentials: chapstick, sunscreen, beef jerky, snacks
- Sort your resupply, eat lunch, dispose of trash
- Hitchhike back up
In our experience, getting rides to and from Independence was easy and quick.
Post-Resupply Camping:
Camp at the lake ~2 miles up from Onion Valley on your way back to the JMT. This positions you well for crossing both Kearsarge Pass and Glen Pass the next day.
Mount Williamson Resort Alternative:
Website: mtwilliamsonmotel.com
Email: MtWilliamsonMotel@gmail.com
Phone: (760) 878-2121
Services:
- Runs shuttles from Onion Valley multiple times daily
- Has hiker boxes with free leftover supplies (open to everyone)
- Package holding service available
Costs:
- Hiker Resupply Package (includes room + breakfast + shuttles + laundry + 1 bucket):
- One person: $290
- Two people: $390
- Three people: $525
- Four people: $660
- Resupply-only (non-guests): $160 (includes shuttle + bucket holding)
- One-way shuttle (guests only): $45
Pro tip: Even if not staying, you can stop by to browse their hiker boxes and leave donations. Very hiker-friendly atmosphere.
Resupply Point #2: Muir Trail Ranch (MTR)
JMT Mile: ~133 (0.9 miles off trail)
MTR is remote but convenient, located almost exactly halfway on the JMT. However, it’s expensive and offers minimal services for the cost.
Resupply Service:
Website: muirtrailranch.com
Email: howdy@muirtrailranch.com
Cost:
- $95 for up to 25 lbs
- $2/lb over 25 lbs
- Shipping: Separate USPS cost (ship 3+ weeks in advance)
Container: Must use a 5-gallon bucket (waterproof, recyclable)
Mailing Address:
Your Name
c/o Muir Trail Ranch
PO Box 176
Lakeshore, CA 93634Available at MTR:
- Hiker buckets with food donations (in our 2025 experience, there were tons of leftover supplies, but MTR officially says not to rely on this)
- Small store with basic resupply items (mostly safety gear and essentials – everything is expensive because it’s all brought in by mule)
- Free electronics charging (110V AC power)
- Small gift shop
- Hot springs across the river (rustic/muddy)
- Very basic backpacker camping
Important Notes: MTR staff wants hikers in and out quickly. Not a hangout spot like VVR. The high prices reflect the logistical challenge of bringing supplies in by mule. Many hikers find MTR unnecessary if they resupply at VVR instead, but the hiker buckets can be a helpful bonus if available.
Resupply Point #3: Vermilion Valley Resort (VVR) – HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
JMT Mile: ~156 (ferry across Edison Lake)
Why VVR is Special: VVR is the highlight resupply stop on the JMT – a true hiker oasis with an incredible vibe and atmosphere.
Getting There:
- Turn off JMT at the VVR junction
- Hike a couple miles to Thomas Edison Lake
- Take the ferry shuttle across the lake to VVR
Ferry Schedule:
- Picks up at Mono Creek: 9:45 AM and 3:45 PM
- Multiple runs until all hikers transported
- Cost: $20 one-way, $40 round-trip
- Check current status at vvr.place/hikers/ferry
Resupply Service:
Website: vvr.place or edisonlake.com
Phone: (559) 259-4000
Resupply Costs:
- Package holding: $30 per bucket/box (June-Sept 15)
- Off-season: $50 per bucket/box (May & Sept 16-Oct)
- Weight limit: 25 lbs per package
Mailing Addresses:
For USPS:
HOLD FOR HIKER (YOUR NAME)
c/o VVR - General Delivery
Lakeshore, California 93634For UPS/FedEx:
Vermilion Valley Resort
c/o China Peak Landing
62311 Huntington Lake Road
Lakeshore, CA 93634⚠️ Note: Ship packages at least 2 weeks before your ETA. Write your name and ETA clearly on all 4 sides of your package.
VVR Experience – The Tab System:
Everything at VVR runs on a tab system:
- Arrive and open a tab with your credit card
- Order meals, drinks, showers, etc. – all added to your tab
- Settle up when you leave
Facilities & Services:
- FREE backpackers campground (right across from the store)
- Restaurant: Full breakfast, lunch, and themed dinners
- Breakfast: Huge portions, solid quality
- Lunch: Sandwiches and burgers
- Dinner: Different theme each night (pizza, BBQ tri-tip & chicken, etc.)
- Free first beer for thru-hikers
- Store: Surprisingly well-stocked for such a remote location
- Coin-operated showers: ~$5
- Loaner clothes: While you do laundry (fun assortment of clean clothes)
- Laundry facilities
- Nightly campfire
- Charging stations
The Vibe:
VVR is an immersive hiker culture experience. You’ll meet fellow thru-hikers, share stories around the campfire, play cards and games, and truly feel part of the trail community. Many hikers cite this as their favorite stop on the entire trail.
Pro Tip: Plan a zero day here if possible. It’s worth it for the experience, food, and the mental break. Even if you don’t strictly need the resupply, VVR is worth visiting.
Resupply Point #4: Reds Meadow / Mammoth
JMT Mile: ~179
Note: This section from VVR to Reds Meadow is approximately 30 miles with a couple of pretty legit climbs, typically taking 2-4 days depending on pace.
Option A: Reds Meadow (On Trail)
Website: redsmeadow.com
Email: info@redsmeadow.com
Phone: (760) 934-2345
Resupply Costs:
- Mail resupply: $40 flat fee (includes pickup from Mammoth Post Office + storage)
- Hand-delivered resupply: $3/day holding fee
Mailing Address:
Your Name
Red's Meadow Resort
P.O. Box 395
Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546Ship via USPS at least 2 weeks before arrival. Available for pickup at General Store 7am-7pm.
- Small store and café on-site
- Basic camping available
- More expensive than Mammoth option
Option B: Mammoth via Duck Pass (BUDGET OPTION – RECOMMENDED)
This is the most budget-friendly approach and only adds minimal hiking.
The Route:
- Cut over Duck Pass from the JMT
- Hike down to Duck Lake area (large campground)
- Hitchhike to Mammoth from the trailhead
- Pick up resupply from Mammoth Post Office (General Delivery)
- Go to a café to sort your resupply and dispose of trash
- Hitchhike back to Horseshoe Lake trailhead
- Hike from Horseshoe Lake to Reds Meadow to rejoin the JMT
Important Shuttle Note: In normal years, there’s a shuttle service that runs from Mammoth directly to Reds Meadow, making the return easier. However, in 2025 this wasn’t available due to road construction, requiring the hike from Horseshoe Lake trailhead. Check current shuttle availability for your hiking dates.
Benefits:
- FREE resupply (Post Office General Delivery)
- Good cafés and restaurants in Mammoth
- Easy hitching
- Shuttle to Reds Meadow available in normal years (when no road construction)
- Only skips 5-6 miles of official JMT (burn scar ridge walking between Duck Pass cutoff and Reds Meadow junction – nothing scenic missed there)
Mammoth Post Office Address:
Your Name
c/o General Delivery
Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546From Reds Meadow: Rejoin the JMT and detour through Devils Postpile – it’s iconic and worth seeing.
Optional Resupply: Tuolumne Meadows
JMT Mile: ~208
Only 21 miles (typically 2 days) from Yosemite Valley, so this stop is usually unnecessary. However, if needed or if you want a nice break before finishing:
Why You Might Stop:
- Post Office (General Delivery) – FREE resupply
- Backpackers campground – recently rebuilt (2024/2025), shiny and new facilities
- Tuolumne Meadows Café – now open again! Get a burger and celebrate being close to the finish
- Store – sells beer and basic supplies
- Grill with food options
- Nice spot to take a break and enjoy the high country before descending to Yosemite Valley
Pro tip: Even if you don’t need resupply, the rebuilt backpackers campground and reopened café make this a pleasant spot for a final night before finishing your thru-hike.
Budget-Friendly vs. Full-Service Strategies
Budget Strategy (Total: ~$205-260 including shipping)
- Independence: Post Office (FREE)
- Skip MTR or just stop for hiker boxes and store
- VVR: Zero day, pay for meals/showers on tab (~$75-100) + $30 resupply + $40 ferry = ~$145-170
- Mammoth via Duck Pass: Post Office (FREE)
- Optional Tuolumne: Post Office (FREE) + burger and beer (~$15-20)
- Shipping costs: ~$30/bucket × 2-3 buckets = $60-90
Total estimated: $205-260
Mid-Range Strategy (Total: ~$365-420)
- Independence: Mount Williamson resupply-only ($160)
- Skip MTR or just stop for hiker boxes
- VVR: Zero day with meals and amenities (~$145-170)
- Mammoth: Post Office (FREE)
- Shipping costs: ~$30/bucket × 2 buckets = $60
Total estimated: $365-420
Full-Service Strategy (Total: ~$550-650)
- Independence: Mount Williamson Resort package ($290 for one person – includes room, breakfast, laundry, shuttles)
- MTR: Bucket resupply ($95 + ~$30 shipping)
- VVR: Zero day with meals and amenities (~$145-170)
- Reds Meadow: Bucket resupply ($40)
- Shipping costs: Additional ~$30-60 for buckets
Total estimated: $550-650
Transportation & Contact Quick Reference
Buses & Shuttles
YARTS (Yosemite to Mammoth)
- Website: yarts.com
- Phone: 1-877-989-2787
- Book at least 12 hours in advance online
Eastern Sierra Transit (Mammoth to Lone Pine)
- Website: estransit.com
- Phone: (760) 872-1901 ext. 2
- Book online: estransit.com/buy-my-pass
Local Shuttles (Whitney Portal)
Lone Pine Kurt (Kurt Power)
- Email: lonepinekurt@aol.com
- Phone: 661-972-9476
Lone Pine Chuck (Chuck Tello)
- Email: LonePineChuck@gmail.com
- Phone/Text: 805-657-0021
- Can do long-distance rides
Other Options:
- Bob Ennis: (760) 876-1915, rwennis@outlook.com
- SherpaMax: (805) 341-6360, sherpamax@aol.com
Resupply Locations
Muir Trail Ranch
- Website: muirtrailranch.com
- Email: howdy@muirtrailranch.com
Vermilion Valley Resort
- Website: vvr.place or edisonlake.com
- Phone: (559) 259-4000
Mount Williamson Resort (Independence)
- Email: MtWilliamsonMotel@gmail.com
- Phone: (760) 878-2121
- Website: mtwilliamsonmotel.com
Reds Meadow
- Website: redsmeadow.com
- Email: info@redsmeadow.com
- Phone: (760) 934-2345
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days does a northbound JMT take?
Most hikers complete the northbound JMT in 14-25 days, averaging 10-15 miles per day. Starting at Whitney Portal means you begin at high elevation with heavy packs, which can slow your initial pace.
Is it harder to hike the JMT northbound?
Yes, northbound is generally considered more challenging because:
- You start at high elevation (8,000+ feet) with a fully loaded pack
- The most difficult passes come early when you’re least acclimated
- Longer distances between resupply points in the southern section
However, you end at stunning Yosemite Valley!
Do I need a Whitney permit for a northbound JMT hike?
You need a wilderness permit that allows entry via Whitney Portal. These permits are easier to obtain than southbound Yosemite permits. Apply through recreation.gov during the lottery period (February 1-March 15 for summer permits).
How much food should I carry between resupplies?
- Whitney Portal to Independence: 5-7 days
- Independence to MTR/VVR: 5-7 days (or 10+ days if skipping MTR)
- VVR to Reds Meadow/Mammoth: 2-4 days
- Mammoth to Yosemite: 5-7 days
Plan your backpacking food strategy carefully to minimize weight while ensuring adequate calories.
What about water on the trail?
Water availability is very dependent on time of year. For us in late July/early August, water was extremely plentiful until we got past Mammoth, then became a bit less abundant for short periods. We never went more than 6-8 miles without being able to filter water. Check current trail conditions for your hiking dates – big rainfall years can make creek crossings dangerous.
Is hitchhiking really safe and easy in the Eastern Sierra?
Yes! The Eastern Sierra has a strong hiking culture, and locals are very friendly to hikers. Throughout our hike, we found rides quickly at every trailhead location where we needed them. The community understands hikers’ needs and many drivers specifically look out for hikers to help.
Should I do a zero day at VVR?
Highly recommended! VVR offers:
- Mental break and social atmosphere
- Excellent food (worth it alone)
- Shower and laundry facilities
- Opportunity to meet other hikers
- Memorable experience that defines the trail for many
What’s the best time to hike northbound?
Optimal window: Mid-July through early September
- Snow has melted from high passes
- Weather is most stable
- All resupply points are open
- YARTS bus service is running (July 1-September 30)
Creek crossings in late July/early August were zero issue for us, but this can vary year to year based on snowpack and rainfall. Read more about Sierra Nevada weather patterns.
Can I camp at Whitney Portal before starting?
Yes! The Backpackers Campground at Whitney Portal is first-come, first-served at $10/night. This gives you a night to acclimate before starting your hike.
What if I arrive in Lone Pine too late in the day?
Stay the night in Lone Pine! Benefits:
- Good night’s sleep before starting
- Hit the trail fresh in the morning
- Easier to get a shuttle or hitchhike in daylight
- Several budget motels available
Are there stores at Whitney Portal?
Yes, there’s a small store and diner, but they close in the evening. Don’t count on them being open if you arrive late (after 7 PM).
What about bear canisters?
Required for the entire JMT. You’ll need to carry one from Whitney Portal all the way to Yosemite Valley. Rent or buy before starting – don’t count on finding one at Whitney Portal. Read our bear safety guide to understand proper food storage and bear encounter protocols.
What about cell phone coverage?
Cell coverage should not be expected on the trail. We had it in some areas occasionally, but it was not normal. Consider carrying a satellite communication device like a Garmin Mini 2 for emergencies and updates.
What about campfire regulations?
Campfire regulations vary year to year and depend on the area and fire conditions. Check current regulations before your hike as they change based on fire risk.
What gear should I bring?
For a complete gear breakdown, check out this YouTube video where I unpack my entire pack on camera and discuss everything I carried:
JMT Gear Breakdown Video
You can also read our guides on backpacking clothing and ultralight packing principles.
Trail Tips from 2025 Experience
Acclimation is Key
The two-night acclimation strategy (Whitney Portal at 8,000 ft, then Trail Camp at 12,000 ft) made a huge difference. Give yourself time to adjust before summiting Whitney. Physical training helps, but nothing replaces proper acclimation.
Hitchhiking Culture
The Eastern Sierra has a strong hiking culture where hitchhiking is normal and expected. Locals are friendly and many specifically look out for hikers. We found rides quickly at every trailhead throughout our journey.
VVR is Worth It
Even if you don’t strictly need the resupply, VVR is worth visiting for the experience. The food, atmosphere, and hiker community make it a highlight of the trail.
Pack for All Weather
Even in summer, expect cold nights (below 40°F) and potential afternoon thunderstorms. We had great weather overall but came prepared. Understanding Sierra weather patterns is essential.
The Eastern Sierra Transit Timing
Plan for a full day of travel from Yosemite to Lone Pine. Bring snacks and entertainment for the long bus rides.
Leave Detailed Plans with Your Shuttle Driver
When booking your Lone Pine shuttle, give them your expected arrival time and phone number (if you have satellite communication). They’re very accommodating but need to plan their day.
Research Current Conditions
Before your hike, research:
- Current trail conditions
- Creek crossing reports (especially important in high-snow years)
- Fire restrictions and campfire regulations
- Water availability reports
- Snow conditions on high passes
Final Thoughts
Hiking the JMT northbound from Whitney Portal offers a unique experience – you’ll tackle the highest passes early, build your trail legs quickly, and finish with the iconic descent into Yosemite Valley. While the logistics require more planning than a southbound hike, this guide provides everything you need.
The reverse shuttle system (parking in Yosemite, taking public transit to Lone Pine) works beautifully and costs far less than private shuttle services. The Eastern Sierra community welcomes hikers, and with good planning, your northbound JMT will be the adventure of a lifetime.
Key Takeaways:
✓ Book transportation early (YARTS fills up in peak season)
✓ Use General Delivery at post offices for free resupply
✓ Plan for full-day travel from Yosemite to Whitney Portal
✓ Don’t skip VVR – it’s a trail highlight
✓ The Eastern Sierra has a strong hitchhiking culture that supports hikers
✓ Allow 2 nights for acclimation before summiting Whitney
✓ Check current trail conditions for water, creek crossings, and fire restrictions
Happy trails! The JMT northbound is an incredible journey, and with this guide, you’re fully prepared for success.
Have questions about planning your northbound JMT hike? The hiking community is always helpful with current conditions and advice.
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